(If you have speakers with more than one pair of wire connections as above, you MUST! Pull the jumpers between the low and mid connection, you CANNOT run Low Level and High Level into the internal amp at the same time, YOU WILL FRY IT.)' from what I read it says the guys current setup will fry his internal amp? Or am I wrong? I just inherited a pair of BP2000's from my father and need help hooking them up to my Denon AVR-X3000 Currently, I have 5.1 surround sound powered by tiny B&W MD80s ( i think) I would like to add these BP2000 as my new two front speakers and the MD80's as my front high's How should I go about wiring up the back of the BP2000's to connect to my denon without blowing it out? Just start with the basic connection, speaker wire only, with all of the jumpers in place, everything still works as it should, then later once you're a little more familiar with then and you feel like experimenting, then we can go from there. But stick with the basics first, you may not ever change then.

If you’re using the updated Definitive Technology app for iOS and still have questions after reading the helpful in-app guide, please call customer service at 800.638.7276. On this page you find the Definitive Technology SuperCube 2000 manual. Definitive Technology BP-8080ST, Definitive Technology ProCinema 600. Hey guys, first time posting here! I have done some searching on this and have a question or two: I just got a new receiver and TV. The receiver has a. Definitive Technology BP2000 Manuals & User Guides. Definitive Technology BP7002 Owner's Manual Owner's manual (13 pages) Definitive Technology BP7002 Brochure Brochure (4 pages) Definitive Technology Mythos New Mythos Eight On-Wall Plasma Solution Reference Brochure (4 pages).

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My brother gave me a full set of Def Tech speakers back in 2009. I now drive these with a Outlaw 7125 amp for the L and R channels, max 125 watts at 8 ohms. Previously I had a decent Denon 5.1 receiver and that was fine. (Maybe 90'ish watts at 8 ohms. My musical taste is jazz and classical, and of-course we watch movies from DVD and Blue Ray. Star Trek the Motionless Picture sounds incredible, reminds me of the 70 mm Dolby CP 200 soundtrack back in '79 at the UA 150 theater in downtown Seattle.

Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology? I didn't quite understand the meaning of 'full range', 'L/R pre-outs' and turning off your subs at the receiver. Can you dumb it down and ELI5?

Hey Function0, Just to let you I know have done a few more things since this thread. First is that I added a dedicated power amp. The one thing I kept struggling with is that speakers just didn't seem to have the punch I was looking for. I 'thought' I had adequate power, and I use that term loosely, since my Onkyo was a higher end unit.

The one thing I kept struggling with is that speakers just didn't seem to have the punch I was looking for. I 'thought' I had adequate power, and I use that term loosely, since my Onkyo was a higher end unit. What I found was that the Def Techs are power hungry!! I just wasn't getting enough power to them. This was verified when I had to return the PA because of a defect and had to re-hookup the speakers back to the Onkyo.

I have had klipsch chorus II and they were amazing too. I have had the experience with Klipschorns as well.

For overall sound quality and performance hats off to Def Tech's. Keep up the good work. I auditioned these speakers against Martin Logans, PSB, B&W, M&K, Legacy, Klipsh, etc. Most of my auditioning was done with variety of music, more concentrated on JAZZ. BP2000 consistently outperformed most of the speakers on the above list.

And the new matter of Deftecn is excrement. Weaknesses: No revisions, as transparent as my loudspeakers of high-sensitivity. Lol that' s exceeds he. I only have one of these. I bought it at a swap meet cheap and decided to give it a twirl. I found out later you have to plug it in for the big one to go, so i octapussed a jumper from my neighbor's power wire and hooked her through to this hitachi all-in-one i tricked out (the model with the clock radio built in--the nice one). I have six other speakers hooked to it so I know the hitachi probably does not have the muscle to blow the 2000tl, but the sparks freaked me out at first.

I have had the experience with Klipschorns as well. Klipsch heritage series is amazing and beautiful and is capable of making the music sing even at lower decibels of sound with considerable 100watt rms solid state amps. But chorus IIs or klipschorn might sound to some harsh and forward sounding with improper amplification but still they are amazing nevertheless. Whereas underpowered amplification will make BP2000s sound flat, lifeless and dull. I would not compare BP2000s to B&W coz I don't have any experience of B&Ws with 15' or dual 10' woofers.

Nice tonal balance and they play as loud as I need, before my 'ears bleed.' I do not plan to ever replace these. Definitive Technology BP2000 are power craving. These are not the speakers ever to be run by any high-street or high end 100watt amps. They begin to sing and come to life when to the least bear minimum of solid 200watt rms (no best buy or common high street stuff) is fed into them and played at above 80 decibels.

The woofers have cast-magne- sium baskets and compliant rubber sur- rounds. The rear panel holds an identical trio of drivers, located directly behind the front array. Definitive Technology says the cabinet interior is divided into separate enclosure volumes that give the front and rear sections slightly different low-fre- quency cutoff frequencies, apparently to compensate for the closer proximity of the rear drivers to the wall. The rear tweeter is also offset, in the opposite direction from the front tweeter.

Slightly angled toward the listening posi- tion (for optimum stereo imaging), they are surprisingly inconspicuous. Lifting off the top plate and pulling down the grille sock reveals the driver comple- ment. On the upper half of the front panel is a pair of 6 3/4-inch cone woofers (their effective cone diameter is about 5 1/2 inches each) vertically flanking a 1-inch aluminum-dome tweeter in the popular D’Appolito configuration. The tweeter is offset slightly to one side of the panel’s vertical midline, which may have been done as much to minimize the spacing between the woofers as for any imaging benefit. The woofers have cast-magne- sium baskets and compliant rubber sur- rounds. The rear panel holds an identical trio of drivers, located directly behind the front array.

Hey guys, first time posting here! I have done some searching on this and have a question or two: I just got a new receiver and TV. The receiver has a left and right output per channel (it does 7.1 max). I currently have a 5.1 setup.

By using the low level / RCA input from your receiver directly to the speaker that signal is already at the proper level and doesn't have to be 'processed' down an extra time, basic train of thought is less processing = cleaner signal. As for the connection to your receiver, this will depend on may factors: Are you using separate Subs? Your room in general and it's individual acoustics? Your personal listening preference?

I was so afraid to get these speakers at $500 a pair in mint form from a nice 72 year old man with All the trash spoked about these speakers.The way i looked at it is there is no way the can sound that bad.I am so Glad i bought them. I have been fighting a bass problem in my theater area,,,no bass in the sweet spot.

I really don't think I could do much better than these speakers no matter what I spend. I've been auditioning amps for 6 months and i just haven't heard a speaker that perks me up the way these do. If I wanted to, I could go out and buy a $15,000 system tomorrow and not look back. The bottom line is I just know it's not gonna sound that much better than what I have and the law of diminishing returns will make that system not worth it.

Crucially, if you truly believe in the mantra that there's 'great music speakers and great home theater speakers but not both', clearly you have never heard a speaker on par with the 2000's (or DT's 7000's) and/or are simply undivorceable from the idea that great sound reproduction MUST contain razor-sharp imagaing. Of course real sound contains nothing of the sort (razor-sharp imaging) and you won't find the 2000's doin' it either. You can find these for $1000 a pair and even less in some cases, which is an outright steal in my book.

There's even an LFE input on the back.

Although we could not see inside the enclosure, it is evidently strongly braced. The bottom of the cabinet contains the subwoofer amplifier and its associated crossover components. Covering the bot- tom 15 inches of the rear of the enclosure is a metal panel with input connectors, amplifier heat sinks, a power switch, a line fuse, a sensitivity switch, and knobs for adjusting the bass equalization and level. The BP 2000 offers a variety of con- nection options.

BP2000 for their price were excellent with both music and movies provided if one could afford to feed them with minimum 200watt rms quality amps or above. Definitive Technology BP2000 build quality is stiff, sturdy and heavy. Definitve, now more than ever, is the red-headed step-child of this industry. Consistently producing products that are lauded by critics and enthusiasts alike, and now being sold by the likes of (boo, hiss) best buy, it's easy to see why the snobbish, predictable, 'phile' crowd denounce their very existence and scoff at the idea that anyone with any sense would consider such a purchase for a serious music rig, Of course reality dictates a different take. The BP 2000, now 15+ years old, still puts most comparably (and many significantly higher) priced loudpseakers to shame. If you can lose or even consider the losing the pin-point imaging delivered from typical front-radiating designs, you will enjoy other sonic virtues in spades.

If the speakers are D EFINITIVE T ECHNOLOGY BP2000 L OUDSPEAKER “Frankly, if circumstances allowed, I would choose these speakers for myself.” BP 2000 Loudspeaker Latest BP2000TL speaker is even better.

The other has the RCA connection and just one speaker wire connection. (The arrays are joined internally) The RCA connection is a Low Level / Pre-Amp connection for the powered woofer section of the speaker. The reason these exist is that, since the woofers are powered they are fed with a low level input into the internal amp for the woofer, when you use just the speaker wire (which is high level) all of the low signals, below the speakers crossover, has to be then filtered/reduced back to low level before it can be fed into the amp and then played by the woofer. By using the low level / RCA input from your receiver directly to the speaker that signal is already at the proper level and doesn't have to be 'processed' down an extra time, basic train of thought is less processing = cleaner signal. As for the connection to your receiver, this will depend on may factors: Are you using separate Subs? Your room in general and it's individual acoustics?

I do not plan to ever replace these. My brother gave me a full set of Def Tech speakers back in 2009. I now drive these with a Outlaw 7125 amp for the L and R channels, max 125 watts at 8 ohms. Previously I had a decent Denon 5.1 receiver and that was fine. (Maybe 90'ish watts at 8 ohms. My musical taste is jazz and classical, and of-course we watch movies from DVD and Blue Ray.

Hey guys, first time posting here! I have done some searching on this and have a question or two: I just got a new receiver and TV. The receiver has a left and right output per channel (it does 7.1 max). I currently have a 5.1 setup. Center channel, 2 front speakers (Definitive Tech BP2000), 2 rear tower speakers, and a sub.

Not produced more. And the new matter of Deftecn is excrement. Weaknesses: No revisions, as transparent as my loudspeakers of high-sensitivity. Lol that' s exceeds he.

Ince its inception, Definitive Technology has specialized in bipolar loudspeaker designs. Bipolar speakers typically have duplicate groups of drivers, facing to the front and rear and driven in phase. That configura- tion gives nearly omnidirectional response in the horizontal plane, with just a slight reduction in output to the sides at middle and high frequencies.

I have BP9000 series front speakers so I can't give you a good answer for match. I have the CS-9040 and found it to really clarify speaking in movies compared to the other centers I have bought. If the speech is hard to understand and/or muddy, you can't go wrong with the CS-9040. Hope this helps. D- [ Douglas Jan 14, 2018 ]. It does not have any provisions/options for standing on its ends. [ Garsia Apr 08, 2017 ] No, because of the design of the speaker, it is meant to lay on it's belly.

The criteria for final adjustment are purely subjective, based on when it sounds “right” to you. In addi- tion to the usual level control, there is a low-frequency equalization control for fine-tuning the balance between the low bass (under 50 Hz) and the upper bass (50 to 100 Hz). The procedure is not complicated, and the instructions point out that (as with separate subwoofers) there is no absolutely “correct” setting. You are encouraged to experiment with the settings to discover the one that best suits your own taste. Normally the sub- woofers of the two speakers will be set identically, but the manual points out that you can compensate for asymmetrical positioning of the left and right speakers (which could affect their low-bass perfor- mance) by using different subwoofer level and equalization settings for them. Although the speakers have subwoofer power switches, there is no problem in leaving them energized continuously, since they use very little power at idle (we never shut them off during several weeks of use). The heat sinks never became more than faintly warm, even after extended operation at high volume levels.

These are not the speakers ever to be run by any high-street or high end 100watt amps. They begin to sing and come to life when to the least bear minimum of solid 200watt rms (no best buy or common high street stuff) is fed into them and played at above 80 decibels.

Vocals were muffled. Midrange was definitely dropped to favor an overly warm and boomy sound. It didn't take me long to bypass these. For a little more, the Legacy Focus (what I ended up with) is so much better. If you want boom.do yourself a favor and buy a self powered sub for 1/4 the price. I expected a lot from these.with the large midrange piston area, the self powered woofer, the thick cabinets.What I heard was boomy, thin, unnatural sound that seemed like it was tailored to the masses.

Originally Posted by Jeezus Just wanted to drop a line back in here: Went and fiddled with it some, turns out the gold outline is actual gold. It looks like the store I bought it from many moons ago installed these by unscrewing the banana plugs and putting the bridge on it, then screwing it back in. I have since taken the input plugs and put them in the middle.

Bipolar speakers, when placed a few feet from the wall behind them, tend to add a quality of spaciousness to the sound, creating a somewhat more realis- tic soundstage than conventional speaker designs. In addition, the multiple drivers can handle more power than a standard configuration for a given distortion level (or, conversely, will generate less distor- tion for a given sound pressure level).

For certain music, Leagacy and B&W's sounded better, but the price was about 5K to 8K more. Martin Logan's sounded better on some horn's, but they were very difficult at adjust around low frequencies. For home theater DP's peroformance was outstanding. For overall sound quality and performance hats off to Def Tech's. Keep up the good work. I expected a lot from these.with the large midrange piston area, the self powered woofer, the thick cabinets.What I heard was boomy, thin, unnatural sound that seemed like it was tailored to the masses.

If you want boom.do yourself a favor and buy a self powered sub for 1/4 the price.

2) Speaker Wire and RCA from Full Range Pre-outs (L/R Front) 3) Speaker Wire and RCA from LFE Each of these may or may not give you different results, sorry to say that it will take a lot of experimenting and personal listening to figure out which is best for you, as I said before, your Receiver, Room, Personal Taste and Other Speakers will play a huge role in figuring out what it's best for you or if any changes are even worth your time. Any questions you can PM me or ask it in the Definitive Owners thread: We check it quite often. Hope this helps. Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology?

Although we could not see inside the enclosure, it is evidently strongly braced. The bottom of the cabinet contains the subwoofer amplifier and its associated crossover components. Covering the bot- tom 15 inches of the rear of the enclosure is a metal panel with input connectors, amplifier heat sinks, a power switch, a line fuse, a sensitivity switch, and knobs for adjusting the bass equalization and level. The BP 2000 offers a variety of con- nection options. It has three pairs of five- way binding posts (labeled HIGH, MID, and LOW), which accept single or dual banana plugs, wires, or lugs and are nor- mally connected in parallel by gold-plat- ed metal jumpers.